25 January 2011

Bishop WrapUp

Well, back in the cold reaches of Idaho now. Bishop was great. I mean, it really is immpossible to complain with 60 degree weather, short approaches, prairie, cheap camping, awesome people, and world class pebbles. WIth that said, i left short on skin, points, and motivation. Spending 6 days on a problem with nothing to show for it (see video) and other utter demoralizing shut-downage of projects has a toll. As does babysitting (some of you will get the reference).

Anyway, be home this weekend. In the meantime here are some goods

Pow Pow (v8) is steeeeeep. and utilizes bad bad holds. Good job scotty and j-rad.


Myself punting off of Soulslinger v9

and a short

19 January 2011

Bishop Update 1/19

Well, after going into destructo mode and annihilating projects from years past, my attention as turned to trying some newer, harder stuff. I've fallen off the left hand finger jugg with my heel up on PowPow twice now=no bueno. IT is very close, as i USUALLY have the top fricking dialed once the heel is up.

Another big project of mine for the trip was Redrum sit. I had tagged this problem months ago, as it looked like the crux revolved around big, powerful moves off an amazing looking tufa-type-pinch. Turns out, (at least with my beta), you don't even pinch the darn tufa! you half-hand crimp on the death crystaline slopers. Awesome. Anyway, I managed to dispatch the stand in a session (which is around 7ish), though the sit seemed impossible. Welp, turns out the GIANT underclings and feet for the first big move into the tufa have chossed off, so now the sit is accomplished with uno shitty undercling (my left hand hates me right now), and a foot jib for the right to throw into the tufa. this move is inn credibly hard. and fucking sharp. Once one sticks this big move, there is still a sequence of 3 hand and foot moves to get situated for the stand. I've done it all in sequence from the lowest part of the tufa with the hand faggotry to get setup for the stand. onnneeee effing move.

enough about me bemoaning how close i am on my projects, here are some pictures from the past couple days.....

The main area of the MIlks are IN!

A nice sequence of Jarred cruising through Soulslinger

Video Still from fail attempt 47 on PowPow

Night session @ Acid Wash Cave

Crazy clouds

A bright night in the pit

maybe the sending gods will smile upon me, and allow my skin to grow inch thick calluses overnight and SOMEHOW stick the first move of Redrum. Also, quinoea grows old. after 5 straight dinners. waaayyyyy olllldddddd.


14 January 2011

bishop update 1/14

Well i've been in bishop for the last 5 days now, soaking up rays (60 today!) and putting some previous projects to bed. I seem to have forgotten how easy the hikes are to the happies and sads, and the abundance of awesome boulder problems/potential projects there are. I've been joined by Red, Jarred, Kelsey, Henry and Makeala from the northern reaches of what sounds like iceland up there.

Haven't been taking near enough photos as i've literally been climbing the whole time, but here are some for yer viewing pleasure....oh ya. THANKS MOM FOR THE CAMERA! IT ROCKS!

The kitchen

red bailing on lawnmower man

kelsey and red

sunset over the sierras

a video of Henry crushing Karma. This problem is located at about 2oclock walking up canyon from Serenghti, well worth the short hike. pads are helpful....

tomarrow i hope to drop a double deuce on PowPow (which jarred destroyed in style the other night) and acid wash stand. Then onto the business....

06 January 2011


the climbing here at Red Rocks is phenomanel. Numerous canyons. SO many problems. Such a variety of rock. And i guess i'm not the only person to think so. We've seen numerous pros, such as Matt Wilder (he didn't recognize me, weird), Max Zolotuckin-looklikeshit, Mike Madison, and Paul Nadler, to name a few.

Here are some photos my friend Jeff took (his pictures are far superior to anything i've taken).... We have 3 more days here until bishop and rock crushing with J-Rad, Kelsey, and big RED! Numerous projects to wrap up, along with black jack games to win and FREE DRINKS!!!! OMG! i looovvveee playing penny sluts, er slots, and getting FREEE whiskeycokes/whatever else i want. Anyway, here are the pictures....video soon!

'The Book of Tom' which might be better suited as a coffee table book it's sooooo purrttyyyy

The approach to the Kraft Boulders. Notice the world's most janky crashpad setup ever.

Working BubbleButt which Mike suprisingly put down quickly, as the crux revolves around a right hand pinch.

Kimi and Kirsten both sending Black Bitch v2

Cruxing on Vino Rojo

Bouldering sure is a demanding sport...